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Fruity Jamminess meets earthy coffee and cacao in this delicious red blend

Ozark Hellbender: A Novice’s Journey at Stone Hill Winery

Blog Posts / 11.6.25

Ozark Hellbender, Broadly

This wine is a delicious blend of three grapes that really began life with a particular fascination that our VP of Marketing Nathan Held (3rd Generation owner and son of the current President Jon Held) had for a weird little salamander that lurks deep in the watersheds of the Ozark Mountains. A secretive creature, it became the cheeky reason why we maintain a level of secrecy around the blend as the creature loves to hide under rocks and riverbanks and is notoriously hard to find. The grapes are all grown in the Ozark Mountain AVA.
The Hellbender Salamander is rather sensitive to ecological changes, broadly it moves at such a pace through life that swift changes to the water in terms of quality and chemical makeup can cause large scale shocks through their relatively small population. The animal serves a unique and important niche in its biome and Nathan Held felt that partnering with the Saint Louis Zoo’s hellbender conservation effort was the best way that Stone Hill Winery could make a difference in keeping the diversity and ecology of the land that they call home going strong.
In the end, the Held family is tied to the land, which makes the Stone Hill Winery tied to the land, and they strive to be the best stewards of the land that they can.

Grandma’s Impressions

Having a bit of a fascination with red wines has led her to be relatively discerning whenever it comes to them. She loves Norton wines and really enjoys our Chambourcin and Hermannsberger. We actually did this tasting over several days as we were drinking it in two clearly distinct ways. I have found that starting Ozark Hellbender in the refrigerator, chilled as though it were a white, lends it to have quite different character.

Grandma was surprised at the jamminess on the front end when it was cold, though she did find its more interesting flavors to be rather muted. It did not linger on her palate; the flavors being fleeting and much more fruit forward. As the wine warmed, she began to enjoy it quite a bit more as her palate was able to really pick up on the darker, richer flavors that the temperature was hiding from her. She marveled at the smooth earthiness of the wine, and we toasted to my mother (who loves this wine with a passion I can only call exuberant) and she enjoyed the rest of her evening with it quite a bit.

My Impressions

When served chill the nose is quite muted but the fruit flavors roar to the forefront, it is jammy and bright and very refreshing. I like to let the wine come to room temperature on the table, letting the entirely character of the wine change as you drink it over the course of dinner and beyond. When chilled the fruitiness is so upfront that it overshadows everything else.

As it comes to room temperature, its richer notes start to appear. The nose becomes less fruity, though still rather fruit forward, there are hints of dark cocoa and toasty elements and a strong thread of vanilla. The flavor is delightful; the balanced tannins keep the body of the wine robust without being overwhelming and I pick out notes of coffee and toasted cocoa that go along with the oakiness on the end.

Final Thoughts

Though I did drink this in two entirely different fashions, I actually do not think one is superior to the other. I more enjoy the transformation of this wine on the table as it warms than I enjoy each portion of the experience individually. A tasty blend that is effectively my family’s standard table wine, whenever my mother visits it is one of the few things that she really asks for and working at Stone Hill certainly makes it easy to provide.

For my part, I think it serves as a great core sample for our wine creation. You can see the things that our Wine Maker excels at, strives for and has perfected by drinking this blend and in a way get a glimpse of the thought process that goes into all of our other red wines. What Hellbender Wine brings to the table is being absolutely approachable, if I do not want to put in the work to really dig into one of our Norton I know I can have a delicious, approachable red blend that will carry a meal and a gathering all on its own.

We ate this with our Hellbender Spaghetti all’ubriaco, the Marazapone that is incorporated into that dish has a smooth nuttiness that really sings when paired with Hellbender. The wine wipes the oil clean from my palate while adding a vague peppery end note that is well suited to meet the next forkful of noodles.

You can try your hand in the kitchen with our Hellbender Spaghetti all’ubriaco!

You can shop Ozark Hellbender, and the rest of our wines Here.

Michael Haggerty is the Shipping Coordinator at Stone Hill Winery and handles all DTC wine shipments.
You can reach him for shipping inquiries via email at shipping@stonehillwinery.com or by phone at 573-486-2221.